11/25/2023 0 Comments Planting tree watering seedlings![]() In either the hole or slit method, it's critical to have the root collar be at the soil line and to firm the soil around the roots. Place the seedling's roots into the slit and push the soil back firmly around the roots with one's foot. Rock the tool back and forth and twist to open a V-shaped slit in the ground. With the slit planting method, drive a planting bar, spade or mattock into the soil. Small quantities of seedlings are often planted using a spade and the hole method. Place the root system in the hole, spread out as much as possible and backfill only up to the root collar. With the hole method, simply dig a hole with a shovel or a mattock large enough to accommodate the root system. There are two methods of hand planting bare-root seedlings: 1) the hole method and 2) the slit method. Because they are grown in a controlled atmosphere they are often similar in size to 3-0 bare-root stock. Tublings are grown for one season in the greenhouse and placed out in the fall to harden off. Most often plastic trays are used which contain several dozen separate tubes for each seedling's root system. A 3-0 seedling is grown for three years at a nursery without transplanting while a 3-2 seedling is actually a five year old "transplant." It is grown for three years in one bed, transplanted and grown for two more years before lifting.Ĭontainerized seedlings or tublings, as they are often called, are grown in a greenhouse in specialized paper or plastic containers. The age and transplant history of bare-root stock is shown by standard number codes such as 3-0 or 3-2. Bare-root stock can vary in age and size by the number of years it was in the nursery and whether or not it was transplanted into a second nursery bed for further development. Bare-root seedlings are grown in nursery beds for several years, lifted and packaged for shipment without soil attached. ![]() There are two types of seedlings available, bare root and containerized. The choice of planting method varies depending on the type, size and quantity of tree seedlings. More detailed information about site selection and tree species requirements is available through UNH Cooperative Extension. As a rule, never plant on sites that are very dry in the summer months or very wet in the spring. However, there are limits to the extent that trees are able to adapt to adverse conditions. In reality, these conditions are often difficult to find and some compromises need to be made. All will do best if placed in sunny locations and in soils that have reasonably good drainage and ample topsoil. Trees and shrubs have soil and sunlight requirements that must be considered when selecting where they will be planted. This will depend a great deal on how carefully they are planted and weather conditions during the early period of transplant shock. Trees may grow slowly for the first few years as they concentrate all their energy on root development during the "transplant shock" stage. If weather conditions are dry, it often pays to wait until the following spring. During this time of year, the period from mid-August through October is usually best. Late summer or fall plantings aren't as successful as spring plantings in our region and can result in higher seedling mortality. ![]() This period is most often ideal for tree planting because soil moisture is high, temperatures are relatively mild and the trees being planted are still dormant. The suggested tree planting season in New Hampshire begins when frost leaves the ground and ends in late May. Plant seedlings as soon as possible in early spring. Don’t soak or leave the roots submerged in water while the trees are in storage. If your seedlings are stored for more than a few days, open the bag and dampen the roots periodically. Store newly purchased seedlings in a cool dark location until they can be planted. Your seedlings have the best chances for survival if you plant them as soon after purchase as possible.
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